The Carter Administration

Andrew Bradley Creative Writer/Strategist

“I’m a minimalist, not in an art sense, but because I believe imagination is the best seller. My craft is to give it a little push when needed.”

I find myself in this paradox every damn summer. City dwellers are not incredibly healthy. Of course in order for me to pursue waves I must migrate to beaches, which means I’m surfing with locals. They’re in the water 24/7, 365! I’m in the water about 20. This is no problem for me though, once I’m in and away you wouldn’t notice the skill difference, It’s just getting in……. See for me paddling out is a major issue and I always end up in some sort of dispute whilst undertaking the major task of avoiding the incoming line up whilst I power my way through the white wash to join everybody else. ITS HARD. Do I paddle behind the incoming traffic? Do I power paddle over the swell before it breaks (in a race against the incoming surfer)? Do I travel half way down the beach to paddle out? Either way by the time I reach the line up I’m flabbergasted. I must get healthy! … Oh yeah when I catch something I have to do it all over again. FMSL